Ten steps engine overhaul
Do you think engine overhaul is a complete headache? You're right. But when you find out how much they take to work, the head will hurt and the hands will begin to work. Because for the money you can repair three engines. So, we will save and master the overhaul on their own.
When does the engine need a major overhaul?
We drove you were driving - suddenly the engine of your favorite iron horse began to pound. Do not rush to immediately grab the kapitalku. We must first check everything.
First, let's determine right away that this is not the engine bulkhead, when it was disassembled, cleaned, changed gaskets and assembled. Here the reasons are more serious. So, pay attention to the prerequisites:
- How old is the car? How long has she run? Foreign car or domestic? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example, “Zhiguli” or “Moskvich”, then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For foreign cars - up to 300.Perhaps your car’s life has been exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
- We look that with oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, even though the car is bursting with oil shamelessly - another reason for the repair.
- We check the compression, since it is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether major repairs are needed or not. We take a compressometer from friends, we take measurements. For example, in our case, of the four indicators in one, instead of the figure eight, the number is already five - it means that the time has come for an overhaul.
Where to begin?
Of course, with information. We take out a manual in which detail and with diagramsreportedlyhow to repair your car brand.We find in the Internet a catalog in which there are spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.
- keys - ratchet, torque;
- mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
- rassuharivatel to valves;
- a device for adjusting the valves;
- two-legged or three-leggedpuller
- support post;
- hydraulic chain hoist;
- set of pullers.
Get to the engine
We drive the car into the garage.Remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so as not to interfere.
Carefully drain all fluids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of the bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any auto shop - and drain them with the help of hoses into the prepared container.
Given the age of the machine, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in their hands, nothing is damaged and it does not break. And then some craftsmen thenrepairwiring, cooling system.
We remove without haste everything that can prevent the engine from getting: air filter, carburetor, fuel pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, crankcase protection, alternator belt, fan, radiator. Unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. Now the engine can be removed.
Stages engine overhaul on the example of the brand "Lada"
Step number 1
Before you get to the inside of the engine and start overhauling, try to remove the safety precautionsout of the car. Call the assistant - not alone to cope here.
Prepare four tires by folding them together. Put two wooden blocks on top. Then put the engine on them.
Step number 2
Now fix the talc, i.e., lift, on the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod, positioned above the hood.
Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you get an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you will not lift it with your hands, and if it falls, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the talcum mount, and only after that start lifting.
Step number 3
Carefully, without too much fuss, pull up the engine upward, move to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it and turn it over so that the crankcase is on top of the wooden bars.
When disassembling, memorize or mark somewhere, where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that then there would be no extras, like some self-made ones.
Start gutting flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the anther crankcase. Go to the oil filter. Unscrew the mounting, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, trying not to break the oil intake.The article in the topic: "We are washing the fuel system of the car with our own hands."
Step number 4
Now remove the front and rear covers of the unit with the gland. Take a star piglet, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain limiter and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, crankshaft sprocket.
Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, gently pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can not use them, take a sample and buy new ones in a specialized store or on the car market. Only first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners for them. Remove the crankshaft with resistant half rings.
Step number 5
Clean the piglet, oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, having put sideways, get from cylinders pistons with rods. Buy a new piston system on the old model. In the workshop still need to contact.
Take the new pistons, let them squander the block under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press in piston pins. Measure the crankshaft neck with a micrometer, look in the manual what size the liners should have, buy them. If the liners you pick up correctly, you can rotate the crankshaftby hand- this will be a test of fit.
Step number 6
Begin assembly with carbon removal. Remove all the metal chips, wash the bed, lubricate them and liners with engine oil, set in place, guided by the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place the stop half-rings so that the undercuts are turned on the crankshaft plane.
Now you can return to the place of the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the labeling guidelines for the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns around easily, then everything is fine. Otherwise, replace the liners with thinner ones.
Step number 7
Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself can not heat up to more than 100 degrees the heads of the rods, but you need to warm up over 200. Check the process.
Now carefully slide the piston pins through the holes, slip the piston rings slowly, make sure that the slots and openings remain, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the unit on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the marking.
Step number 8
Take a wooden block and, gently tamping, push the piston into the cylinder. Turn over the block to the initial position, but make it so that the crankshaft is at the top.Tighten the bolts.
Slightly begin to pull the rods to the necks. Then scroll through the crankshaft to make sure that everything is set correctly and the inserts do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.
Step number 9
Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-place the joints with sealant. Go to the installation of anther clutch and flywheel. Remember that turning the flywheel must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.
Now go in for the installation of the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.
Step number 10
Finally you can install the engine and fasten it with bolts. Tighten carefully, so as not to disrupt the thread and not burst parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to the previous places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the mounting strength.
As soon as the engine overhaul is completed, it is imperative that a cold run-in be carried out before it is installed on the machine. This is done to ensure that new parts get used to each other, and is carried out in a passive, benchmodeor rigidly towed when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts spinning and cold running-in occurs.
So, in the garage, connect the hoses of the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, exhaust to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to the electric motor.
Fill the coolant that was discharged during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.
Tips for operating the engine after an overhaul
- Before the car runs two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, gradually pick up speed, do not overload the engine.
- After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).
Now you are convinced that overhaul of the engine with your own hands is possible and profitable, because it costs three times less. In addition, it will allow the vehicle to operate for several more years as a result of the resource extension, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid accidents.
The following video will tell you which parts are needed for the engine overhaul of the VAZ 2103: